The Black Hole of the White Canyon is a wonderfully dramatic canyon name, perfect for this beautiful route. Located in the remote wilds of Cedar Mesa, Utah, this canyon can be accessed from UT 95, about an hour south of Hanksville. It is best to set a shuttle for the exit, which is also along a pullout along the highway. Beta is available here: Canyoneering The Black Hole of White Canyon – Hite – Road Trip Ryan.
White Canyon is a huge canyon system, spanning more than 45 miles and passing through Natural Bridges National Monument. This canyon runs for more than 30 miles along UT 95 – a very remote and scenic highway that gives access to Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, Natural Bridges NM and Bears Ears NM. Most of the White Canyon can be hiked and accessed from the highway in multiple places. However, the deepest, darkest and narrowest section is called the Black Hole, which is a canyoneering route spanning about five miles.
The Black Hole is a mostly non-technical route as there are no rappels. However, there are many downclimbs, some requiring partner assists, a lot of cold water and the infamous very long swim in the Black Hole chamber itself. This canyon also has a high risk of flash flooding due to its huge drainage area and has had its share of fatalities. This is not an adventure to take lightly, as is demonstrated by the warning sign at the beginning. A few years ago, giant logjams washed into the canyon and made it almost impassable, which is why the sign was installed. However, a few years later, the logs washed through, opening the canyon once more.
The approach trail is fairly easy to follow as it descends down a steep gully and winds its way down to the floor of the canyon. At this point, the canyon is fairly open with beautiful sculpted rock walls. The bedrock in White Canyon looks like it was carved out and polished by waves and has a very unique fluted appearance. As the walls closed in, we encountered our first corridor filled with water up to the waist. We changed into wetsuits and began our semi-aquatic descent through the canyon.
As we waded through the canyon, the walls narrowed and opened up again, with the number of pools steadily increasing. The narrows in this canyon are really top-notch and go on for miles, culminating in the Black Hole section. As you approach the main event, things get a little more technical and there are several trickier downclimbs into pools. Then, the walls close in and you are in for a 300+ foot swim through very cold water and amazing scenery. This is without a doubt the most beautiful part of the canyon as you swim through tight corridors and rock formations that are right in the water.
After you exit the Black Hole chamber, the fun just keeps going! More narrows, more water and more gorgeous views. True to its flash flood reputation, this canyon features a lot of large logs wedged high above the floor and large boulders strewn everywhere. A testament to the power of water.
Eventually, the pools become fewer and smaller and the canyon opens up into towering walls flanking a wide wash. It was time to take off our wetsuits and change back into hiking clothes, just in time for a cairned exit trail. The exit is a steep climb up a well-marked trail, leading right to our shuttle vehicles next to the highway.
Overall, this is a very fun, very beautiful and fairly easy day. Definitely a five-star experience with a great pay-to-play ratio.
